Israel Trip

Israel Day Three: Jerusalem

Travel from Nazareth to Jerusalem

IMAG0481We left Nazareth this morning as the sun was rising in the sky.  Perhaps something I didn’t convey in my last post is the culture and nature of Nazareth. Nazareth is in the mountains. Houses are built on the sides of hills. Rain and water are in low supply and the locals have holding tanks above their house and apartments. Most dress in very trendy and modern. There are some funny signs around here such as “Lady Clinic”. I’m guessing that’s a health clinic for women.

It was explained to us that many of the buildings and homes are built illegally. Many are Palestinians and as such, do not have permission to build. So, many buildings are left unfinished. Many of the dwellings would fail Western code standards. Our hotel was generally very modern, but no clothing irons or wash cloths.

We traveled from Nazareth to Jerusalem, we drove through many farms. Olive trees, lime or lemon trees, banana trees, and other agriculture. One the interesting things about Galilee is that many of the people around the area do not fish! Commercial fishing is not allowed in Galilee because the lake supplies much of Israel with water. They don’t want pollution. Most of the people in the time of Jesus, around Galilee were not fishermen but farmers.

IMAG0494Many of the people that I have met here in restaurants or hotel workers are very kind people. Their hospitality is very apparent and locals (at least the ones we met) were happy to talk with us. Contrary to American perceptions, most people here are not interested in war. They just want to live. They want to work, have land to grow crops, and provide for their families. Political and economic instability make this very difficult. Issues of cultural and political conflicts make these goals difficult.

As we traveled on the bus to Jerusalem, Amy (our Jewish American guide) gave us a history of the modern geo-political conflict of the State of Israel. Many people think that the conflict that we see now in Israel is about the ancient conflict between Jews, Muslims, and Christians. This is an over simplification. Most of the current conflict is centered around modern geo-political problems, not ancient ones. The State of Israel was created by several groups, but the Jews who led the movement to create a Jewish state were not ultra fanatical religious zealots but secular Jews. Zionism was not embraced by many religious Jews in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. Conservative religious Jews believe that only the Messiah would establish the nation of Israel. As time went on, the religious conservatives thought that maybe God was working through these secular Jews to establish a land and nation for Jews.

Todd gave an overview of the modern conflict but with a specific focus on the creation of the modern state of Israel after 1948. The geo-political conflict came to a head in 1967 through the 6 day war. After several alliances that formed in the Mid East against Israel, Israel decided to launch a preemptive strike. Israel retook the West Bank, Holy Sites, and part Jerusalem. In just 6 short days, the Israeli army took a lot of disputed and from several nations.

After the 6 day war, many religious Jews who thought the creation the State of Israel was possible a divine action and changed their minds. In addition, this is also the time of the rise of Christian Zionism, or the support of the State of Israel. Hal Lindsey’s “The Late Great Plant Earth” became a best seller.

All of this is important in the peace process. Understand the history and experiencing it is critical to peace.

West Bank

As we entered into the West Bank, we saw Jewish settlements and Palestinian villages. You can tell the difference. Jewish settlements have access to water and Palestinian villages have black water tanks on top of homes. License plates are color coded to allow or strict certain people’s travel into the West Bank. As we traveled the highway, we could see the border of Jordan. The Jordan River valley is lush with farms. We even saw a shepherd with his sheep! The Jordan River is drying up because much of the water from Galilee is being diverted away from the border with Jordan. It is projected that the river will completely dry up by 2050. Many farmers, as I look out of the bus writing this, would lose their livelihood.

Jerusalem

IMAG0525Finally, we made our way to Jerusalem. Jerusalem is an amazing city. It is a city that sits on top of a rocky mountain. I can’t imagine what the crusaders were thinking when they had to battle to take such a summit. Anyone who is at the base is at a gross disadvantage.

Our first visit was at the Mount of Olives. There was a monk there handing out olive branches and I took two. The Mount faces the wall of Jerusalem. The olive grove there is hundreds of years old and possible was one of the groves that Jesus walked. This area include Gethsemane and the rock where it is said Jesus cried blood. A church is built around it and there was a priest holding mass.

IMAG0571At Lunch we met with Oren Magnezy, who is a leadership consultant. From September 1999 through August 2008, Magnezy served on Ariel Sharon’s immediate staff. Oren also served as an assistant to the Chief of Staff of the Prime Minister, Senior Assistant to the Director General of the Prime Minister’s Office. We listened as Oren presented a very interesting history of his service to the Israeli government. He was selected after military service to serve in high leadership roles. Oren’s perspective on the Israeli and Palestinian conflict was very balanced. His description of the geo-political challenges were honest but his ideas were practical.  He was supportive of letting the Palestinians have their own land because the current conflict is not sustainable. It was a very informative and gave a needed perspective. He also talked about how Christians in Israel are shrinking and Oren IMAG0574said that was a bad thing. Christians, in his view, were helpful for the peace process. I wish every American could sit and listen to dialogue with Oren. He provides so much information and fresh perspective that is practical.

After lunch, we went to Yad Vashem, the Israeli Holocaust Museum. It was a somber experience. I have been to the Washington D.C. Holocaust Museum, but Yad Vashem is a sacred site. There is a great deal of reverence given to the site. No pictures can be taken inside the museum but as you walk around you are able to take pictures. Walking around the site you can see Jerusalem in the distance. The name “Yad Vashem” is taken from Isaiah: Even unto them will I give in mine house and within my walls a place and a name (yad vashem) better than of sons and of daughters: I will give them an everlasting name, that shall not be cut off” (Isaiah 56:5). You basically walk through a maze of the story of the holocaust. The zig-zag path is blocked by multimedia of Germany’s progress through the war. The man hallway is blocked by these stops as one can see the window to Jerusalem but one cannot walk directly to it. It was especially difficult to learn about how children were killed and abused. The last stop is a room full of millions of Jews’ names who were killed  in the Holocaust contained in binders on the walls.

Now, we are staying the night in Bethlehem. That’s it for tonight.

Israel Trip Day 1Day 2Day 3Day 4Day 5 part IDay 5 part II Day 6Day 7Day 8

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